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Lucky 13 adjustable pump cone

I have the cobra fins and, while I generally don't go very fast, I've never encountered cavitation while turning at speed. Just during hole shot with lots of ballast or when hammering the throttle.

Edit: Basically what birddogdaze said. Maybe all you need is the fins if you're not getting cavitation on hole shot, but just during turns.

I'd be interested to hear your report after you install the Lucky 13 cone though!
 
Just to be clear, I don't experience cavitation going 20mph , possibly 30mph going into a turn. But I'm thinking I'm in the upper 30s and lower 40s when attempting it. Doing a very wide turn I would likely not experience it but trying to attempt a tighter turn is when I run into problems. In comparison from the yamaha to my speedster the cone on the speedster is twice the size; I'm not entirely sure it's stock because I purchased that boat in 2013 with only 10hrs on it. Anyways, I'll have the lucky 13 on by the end of the week and I have a 2 week boat trip that I stay on a lake starting the 2nd week in July. I'll definitely report back with feedback.
 
Just to be clear, I don't experience cavitation going 20mph , possibly 30mph going into a turn. But I'm thinking I'm in the upper 30s and lower 40s when attempting it. Doing a very wide turn I would likely not experience it but trying to attempt a tighter turn is when I run into problems. In comparison from the yamaha to my speedster the cone on the speedster is twice the size; I'm not entirely sure it's stock because I purchased that boat in 2013 with only 10hrs on it. Anyways, I'll have the lucky 13 on by the end of the week and I have a 2 week boat trip that I stay on a lake starting the 2nd week in July. I'll definitely report back with feedback.
Good Luck to you. The Yamaha engines being bullet proof is why I purchased my boat. Fit and finish are just ok, and I accepted this since we are post 2020 COVID, and the quality for everything these days sucks....
 
Good Luck to you. The Yamaha engines being bullet proof is why I purchased my boat. Fit and finish are just ok, and I accepted this since we are post 2020 COVID, and the quality for everything these days sucks....
Thank you. I bought the yamaha for the exact same reasons as you. I was extremely lucky with the speedster, never had supercharger problems and I just had it rebuilt last year...at that time the yamaha was not in the picture. It's a shame quality has slid in the wrong direction. Some area's of the boat just seem rushed or just to cut costs.
 
This is my first post here, we just purchased a 2024 ar195. We also own a 2011 seadoo speedster 255hp. In comparison the seadoo has none of the problems we have experienced with the yamaha. The speedster has like zero cavitation problems, it's literally hooked up all the time unless I spin the boat out or just do something stupid. The yamaha has cavitatated from day 1 and I've been trying to fix the issue. Replying to the previous post, I've resealed the pump tunnel and smoothed out all imperfections or anything that could effect air or water flow. I've checked the clean out port and it's seal; from what I can tell it's not leaking. I've filled it up with water and the water stays there for days until I pull out the port. I also looked for missing sealant around the transom and added sealant there. A whole day on the water there is zero water in my bilge or hull and I still have cavitation mainly trying to turn the boat at speed. Hole shot is good but definitely slippage there to. My impeller and gaps look spot on. So now I have a lucky 13 on the way....I can't think of anything else. Yamaha imo could do much better, should not have these issues with a brand new boat.
Did you buy the boat new or used?
Have measured the gap between the impeller and the wear ring? Pretty sure the gap is .014” to .0177”.

I’m curious about this cavitation you are experiencing while turning…. Does the engine rev up as you start to turn indicating it starts to cavitate as well as bleeding off speed? Or does the boat bleed off speed and the engines slows down? Does this happen when turning either left or right?

When you “holeshot” does the tach hit the pin at max then drop back down?
 
Did you buy the boat new or used?
Have measured the gap between the impeller and the wear ring? Pretty sure the gap is .014” to .0177”.

I’m curious about this cavitation you are experiencing while turning…. Does the engine rev up as you start to turn indicating it starts to cavitate as well as bleeding off speed? Or does the boat bleed off speed and the engines slows down? Does this happen when turning either left or right?

When you “holeshot” does the tach hit the pin at max then drop back down?
I bought the boat brand new. Honestly, I haven't given it 100% throttle at take off but maybe 75% with no issues. To answer your other question. The engine starts to rev up as I start the turn and begins to cavitate. When this happens, I just slow the boat down until it loads the pump. I know this happens when I turn left but can't say with 100% certainty it happens when I turn right...but I'm thinking it would.
 
I bought the boat brand new. Honestly, I haven't given it 100% throttle at take off but maybe 75% with no issues. To answer your other question. The engine starts to rev up as I start the turn and begins to cavitate. When this happens, I just slow the boat down until it loads the pump. I know this happens when I turn left but can't say with 100% certainty it happens when I turn right...but I'm thinking it would.
Any reason you haven’t taken it back to the dealer seems like this should be a warranty issue?
 
Any reason you haven’t taken it back to the dealer seems like this should be a warranty issue?
Let's start off by saying the dealer I went to is horrible and is 2 states away. I live in pa and the dealer is in Virginia. There is no way I will have them touch my boat again. I will likely go to the dealer in my area for warranty concerns. The reason I purchased so far away is because the boat was a 2024 leftover and was heavily discounted and in the color scheme I wanted.
 
Let's start off by saying the dealer I went to is horrible and is 2 states away. I live in pa and the dealer is in Virginia. There is no way I will have them touch my boat again. I will likely go to the dealer in my area for warranty concerns. The reason I purchased so far away is because the boat was a 2024 leftover and was heavily discounted and in the color scheme I wanted.
Right on I get it.. I have a somewhat similar situation…. Somewhat.

Take a pic of your impeller where it interfaces with the wear ring and let’s have a look. You can also get a set of feeler gauges and check the gap to make sure it is spec. While you are at it, take a pic of your clean out plug seal. If it’s kinda messed up it can leak and cause issues.

Make sure the ring in the base of the clean out plug is clean as well as the tube itself. Go get a wax toilet gasket and smear that into the groove at the base of the clean out plug and put some on the skirt as well. Then go out and try it, this will help ensure that the plug is sealed and try to eliminate that area as a source of your problem.

The blades of the impeller should not have any dings or dents in them as well.
 
Thanks for all the input. I have a set a feeler gauges coming tomorrow and the boat service manual. .35-.45 mm gap. I have checked the plug and its seat. It looks good, even better is i have no water gathering in there when I'm taking it out. The only time I get water accumulation is when I go in reverse where it comes up the drain hole. When I sealed the pump tunnel the impeller looks brand new. Anyways, I'll be under there again with the gauges and double check. Thanks again.
 
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