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255XD Shorelandr trailer advice/questions…

Howdy Pilgrim

Well-Known Member
Messages
10
Reaction score
2
Points
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Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2022
Boat Model
255XD
Boat Length
25
I’m having issues with my Shorelandr trailer that came new with my 2022 255XD.

I already went through 4 brand new tires after one of them became almost completely bald on the outside tread. I hate to say it but I’ve trailered the boat less than 15 times. Maybe 1k-2k miles total

I called my Yamaha shop I purchased the boat from and went through the process of trying to warranty the tires. Took the trailer to an alignment shop, everything checked out perfect and within spec. They gave me all the measurements and good to go.

Noticed after last time to the lake that the boat just continues to feel like I’m dragging it at times. I have attached photos and it appears that the brakes are engaging and potentially staying engaged on the passenger side of trailer (starboard of boat). You can clearly see the wear between the two sides are not equal at all. Img 6671 is port side img 6672 is starboard side and much much more scored and deeper. This is the side where I had issues with the tire as well

Questions/Advice…
1. What could be causing this to happen
2. What are the replacement parts for rotors and pads? Trailer model YAV51TJXWMS0-16
3. Is it normal for them to brake down this quickly or how often do you change your brakes?

Any help is SUPER appreciated as we have a trip coming up that I have to drive 4 hours each way and just want to try and make it safe
 

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Here’s a thread that I did on the trailer bearings and brake maintenance that may help.

Have you been checking the hub temperatures when you tow?
Have you jacked the wheels up and checked for excessive drag?

Typically if a caliper hangs up in its travel the results are dramatic.
 
Here’s a thread that I did on the trailer bearings and brake maintenance that may help.

Have you been checking the hub temperatures when you tow?
Have you jacked the wheels up and checked for excessive drag?

Typically if a caliper hangs up in its travel the results are dramatic.

I have not checked the hub temps. What would those normally be and how are you recording the temps? I guess I would be looking to see a difference between the too and maybe a temp gun?

I have not jacked up the boat and spun the wheels myself. I was told that was done at the alignment facility because the whole boat/trailer has to be lifted but it would be good to double check myself for sure.

Thank you for the link I will dive in and if the parts are in there I will get those coming asap while I continue to diagnose 😎
 
I have not checked the hub temps. What would those normally be and how are you recording the temps? I guess I would be looking to see a difference between the too and maybe a temp gun?

I have not jacked up the boat and spun the wheels myself. I was told that was done at the alignment facility because the whole boat/trailer has to be lifted but it would be good to double check myself for sure.

Thank you for the link I will dive in and if the parts are in there I will get those coming asap while I continue to diagnose 😎
You should be able to put your hand on the hubs without getting burned… the brake hubs will always be warmer than the non brake hubs.

Good job on getting the alignment checked.
 
You should be able to put your hand on the hubs without getting burned… the brake hubs will always be warmer than the non brake hubs.

Good job on getting the alignment checked.

Did a quick glance through your thread and one thing I didn’t catch was the rotors… are those a standard size or something I can measure and go from there? I apologize for my ignorance didn’t think I’d be messing with these this low of miles lol
 
You don’t need to start throwing parts at this project until you determine what’s wrong. You need to pull the wheels off and go through everything. One tire wearing on the outside edge is weird do you have any pictures?

Here’s a few more threads to look at. In that first one is a couple pictures showing how to push the caliper over with a pry bar, then how to manually pump the surge brake actuator. Do one wheel at a time. Check brake fluid before you begin.



Are you in salt or fresh water?

Did you check your owners manual for the trailer that came with the boat?

In that first thread I sent you it shows the slider pins, you may need to pull those and make sure they’re lubricated and that the calipers slide freely with the piston collapsed and the tension spring removed.

The pics you included in your first post don’t look that bad, there’s a difference for sure but that could be air in the brake line between the starboard side and the port side.
 
Thank you so much for this information and the resources! I will definitely go through the list one by one and run this down.

Here’s a pic of the tires. The top is the side I seem to be having problems with while the bottom is the driver side of truck port side of boat. Less than 3k miles easily.
 

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Caliper pistons will also lock up. Mine did and the brakes were always dragging.

I'd compress them and be fine for a day.

They get stuck.
 
Got the wheels off the ground and did some testing. Tires spin freely… maybe a bit of slight drag as I you can hear it but tires will spin 2-3 rotations on one hard spin with the hand

Checked brake fluid, all good there. Manually tested the surge brakes by using a screwdriver and actuating the surge brakes. Both sides work and lock up the wheels as designed

HOWEVER… and I’m not sure if it’s supposed to operate this way, there were times during testing that the pin would get stuck back thus keeping the brakes on even when the surge brakes were not being actuated by the screwdriver, the pin was stuck thus brakes were on. We would hit that metal lip and it would then release the pin. This was occurring during testing so I don’t know if this could be occurring during normal driving conditions (see video)

Any additional advice would be massively appreciated as otherwise it seems the system is operating as it should

 
The pin getting held in position is part of the emergency break away function, so it’s normal. On your surge brake trailer if it breaks away from the tow vehicle, the cable will pull the trailer brakes on by compressing the actuator and the break away mechanism will hold the brakes on until that tab is pushed to release the brakes.
 
The pin getting held in position is part of the emergency break away function, so it’s normal. On your surge brake trailer if it breaks away from the tow vehicle, the cable will pull the trailer brakes on by compressing the actuator and the break away mechanism will hold the brakes on until that tab is pushed to release the brakes.
Ahhhh that makes total sense thank you!

Maybe need to look at rebuilding the caliber? The wear on these just seem like something’s going on especially with going through tires after less than 5k miles easily
 
I think there is something else going on.. if the caliper was dragging that much the rotor would be blue.

Did you bleed the brakes? If not do that as well.. get any air in the system out. This is a tedious process, get your friend to help you, and get a good amount of brake fluid… you will need a fair amount to flush the system and get the air out.
 
I would get a second opinion on the alignment numbers our '22 255xd trailer was out of alignment. also found that the U-bolts that hold the axles/ springs to the trailer frame were not very tight. Our first set of tires did not last long.
 
For that matter a good straight edge and a 3’ level will tell you a lot.
 
I think there is something else going on.. if the caliper was dragging that much the rotor would be blue.

Did you bleed the brakes? If not do that as well.. get any air in the system out. This is a tedious process, get your friend to help you, and get a good amount of brake fluid… you will need a fair amount to flush the system and get the air out.

Rotor is not blue so can cross that off the list. I did bleed the brakes on both sides. Did not notice any air bubbles and went through probably quarter to half of a brake fluid bottle just to make sure I did it thoroughly

Took the boat out yesterday, 3 hour round trip and seemed to trailer fine. Didn’t get any sort of “dragging” feeling

I stopped a few times there and back just to see if I noticed anything. Rims on the brake axle were warm to the touch and driver side (port side boat) was noticeably hotter. That side to me doesn’t seem to have the wear indications that the other side does.

The alignment test was pretty expensive and extensive and everything was well within range but I guess it’s possible they did it wrong. I took it to an RV shop as I had to have a 3rd party company perform the alignment to attempt a warranty claim on the stock tires

All in all it trailered fine yesterday and didn’t notice anything major. Of course if I burn through another 4 tires in a few thousand miles then I’ll consider that major lol

I’ll make sure everything is tight up in there but haven’t really seen or discovered anything definitive to this point. I’ll keep working on it and keep everyone posted if I find something :)
 
Rotor is not blue so can cross that off the list. I did bleed the brakes on both sides. Did not notice any air bubbles and went through probably quarter to half of a brake fluid bottle just to make sure I did it thoroughly

Took the boat out yesterday, 3 hour round trip and seemed to trailer fine. Didn’t get any sort of “dragging” feeling

I stopped a few times there and back just to see if I noticed anything. Rims on the brake axle were warm to the touch and driver side (port side boat) was noticeably hotter. That side to me doesn’t seem to have the wear indications that the other side does.

The alignment test was pretty expensive and extensive and everything was well within range but I guess it’s possible they did it wrong. I took it to an RV shop as I had to have a 3rd party company perform the alignment to attempt a warranty claim on the stock tires

All in all it trailered fine yesterday and didn’t notice anything major. Of course if I burn through another 4 tires in a few thousand miles then I’ll consider that major lol

I’ll make sure everything is tight up in there but haven’t really seen or discovered anything definitive to this point. I’ll keep working on it and keep everyone posted if I find something :)
Get yourself a handheld heat gun so you can take temperatures on your hubs / rotors. Keep in mind that if one side is in the sun it will be much hotter than the side that is not in the sun. You can also use the heat gun to measure across the width of the tread on the tires to see if there are any hotspots. Used to use a heat gun on my shifter car tires to check for proper chassis set up. It works well.

Glad to hear everything seems to be OK. Perhaps you just had a caliper that was dragging a bit. Go out and enjoy the boat and burn a bunch of fuel and have a lot of fun!

Keep us posted!
 
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