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TR-1 Valve lash check

FSH 210 Sport

Jetboaters Fleet Admiral
Messages
8,693
Reaction score
10,758
Points
582
Location
Tranquility Base
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2020
Boat Model
FSH Sport
Boat Length
21
While the YES extended warranty was still in effect I was having the dealer check the valve lash every 200 hours, each time I had it done I asked whether any adjustments were necessary and was told no adjustments were required as all were within spec.

Today when my friend and I checked themall were within spec at approximately 700 hours, the large majority of the hours on my engines are at idle / high idle.

The intake valve lash spec is .0059-.0087”, in all 12 intakes a .006” feeler gauge was sloppy loose, only two would not allow an 008” gauge.

The exhaust valve lash spec is .0102-.0126”. In 11 of the 12 exhausts a .010” feeler gauge was sloppy loose and one was just loose, that one would barely take an .011” gauge, the rest would easily take an .011” gauge with some taking a .012”.

The available shims to adjust the valves come in differences of .002”, so you have to wait until the lash is at minimum before you can adjust the lash and still be in range.

The job is straight forward in the service manual, you will need to acquire a cam gear spanner to roll the engine with. In my three cylinder TR-1 engine you can set cylinder 1 at TDC on compression and measure intake and exhaust and intake on cylinder 2. Set cylinder 3 at TDC on compression and measure intake and exhaust and exhaust on cylinder 2. You can use a simple go / no go procedure to simplify this task using two feeler gauges, one at the minimum lash and one at the maximum. As long as the minimum fits and the maximum does not it’s good to go.
 
While the YES extended warranty was still in effect I was having the dealer check the valve lash every 200 hours, each time I had it done I asked whether any adjustments were necessary and was told no adjustments were required as all were within spec.

Today when my friend and I checked themall were within spec at approximately 700 hours, the large majority of the hours on my engines are at idle / high idle.

The intake valve lash spec is .0059-.0087”, in all 12 intakes a .006” feeler gauge was sloppy loose, only two would not allow an 008” gauge.

The exhaust valve lash spec is .0102-.0126”. In 11 of the 12 exhausts a .010” feeler gauge was sloppy loose and one was just loose, that one would barely take an .011” gauge, the rest would easily take an .011” gauge with some taking a .012”.

The available shims to adjust the valves come in differences of .002”, so you have to wait until the lash is at minimum before you can adjust the lash and still be in range.

The job is straight forward in the service manual, you will need to acquire a cam gear spanner to roll the engine with. In my three cylinder TR-1 engine you can set cylinder 1 at TDC on compression and measure intake and exhaust and intake on cylinder 2. Set cylinder 3 at TDC on compression and measure intake and exhaust and exhaust on cylinder 2. You can use a simple go / no go procedure to simplify this task using two feeler gauges, one at the minimum lash and one at the maximum. As long as the minimum fits and the maximum does not it’s good to go.
Impressive post and 700 hours. Wow!
 
Impressive post and 700 hours. Wow!
Thanks!

Didn’t feel the need to post any pics…. I’m lucky I had a motion pro clutch tool in my roll away that a friend gave me that I could use as an improvised spanner, I did have to use a hack saw on it to make it work but it got the job done.

I forgot to add that in the service manual there is a chart that guides you to which “pad” or shim you need to install based on the measurements you take.

My friend who has a lot of engine experience said that depending on how the valves were set up to begin with, once the point is reached that the valve lash needs to be adjusted, one should really pull the head and do a valve job.

In that same theme, he said to me that one exhaust valve that was closer to minimum than all the rest was probably set up that way from the factory.

Lastly, I would say to anyone who does their own maintenance, you should at least pull the valve cover and check the valve lash by the time the first oil change is done and record the measurements as a benchmark. Hindsight being what it is I wish I had done that, especially since I see myself putting a lot more hours on my boat. So far everything seems good with them, no oil consumption and they seem to be running great.
 
When you told me you were doing this the other day i wanted to bet you that they were fine lol
Yamaha makes a very good product. All of my Yamaha products i own have been amazingly reliable. And i have many
 
Still had to check! Thanks for the help!
 
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