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Cracked Jet Nozzle

cwoav8r

Jetboaters Captain
Messages
531
Reaction score
412
Points
227
Location
Naples, Florida
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2008
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
23
So, last weekend while I was finishing up the port pump housing overhaul when I started replacing both steering and both reverse cables I noticed that the starboard nozzle was cracked. I have no clue how this could have happened given the location of the crack. At this point I have three options:

A: Run it as is
B: Beat it to fit and JB Weld it then run it
3: Hold of on running it until I get it welded

I will ultimately get to option 3, but I would rather wait until after season, cause we have not been on the water in FOREVER and the wife is getting impatient.

Oh, and the scrape mark is not from impact, it's where the reverse gate was rubbing...

Thoughts?

Ed

20250427_174133.jpg


20250427_174140.jpg

20250427_174130.jpg
 
Option B doesn't cost anything more than time and a few cents, plus, you are still essentially in the same situation as present, if it doesn't work. No harm, no foul, with a chance of success.

That's the route I'd go at this point, as there IS potential for bigger failure running it as-is, however slim. Some file work, and sanding/grinding is about the lowest effort solution to get it looking more serviceable.

Do YOU have the welder, or would you have to remove the nozzle and pay it done? If YOU can do it, I'd take that route, obviously, but it doesn't sound like you're gonna be the welder for this
 
Do YOU have the welder, or would you have to remove the nozzle and pay it done? If YOU can do it, I'd take that route, obviously, but it doesn't sound like you're gonna be the welder for this
Nope, I would have to take it to a metal shop.

I'm just not quite sure how to apply JB in this situation... just bend it back and lay a coat inside and out, or fill in fist then bend it back like you would normally apply glue?
 
Nope, I would have to take it to a metal shop.

I'm just not quite sure how to apply JB in this situation... just bend it back and lay a coat inside and out, or fill in fist then bend it back like you would normally apply glue?

I think I'd try to get some in between the gap. It's likely you'll rub a lot of it off, but you're already gonna have it mixed up, so even if it's just a little, it's kinda acting like glue. I might even try 2 different applications, fill the gap, get it close, and clamp it together until it sets up, and then a second application after that's cured, to give you some material to level out the uneven section, and then file that down after it's cured.

I think you may get pretty close with mating the sides back together, but not perfect. Who knows though, fortune may shine on you with this project.

I wonder how it happened, I'm with you, that seems to be an odd place for it to split, without hitting something that would seem to be noticeable
 
That is not a big deal as long as the reverse gate isn't rubbing to bad. Look around for used parts then swap it out when you have time. On the newer boats the entire jet pump assembly is so bad with lips and ridges from the ride plate pick up to the nozzle. That small deviation you have is minimal. My guess on what happened something hit the the fin and caused it to crack the steering nozzle.

If you try to knock it back into alignment it could crack off

I vote run it as is but in the future swap it
 
Just a note; if you are going to want to have it welded and you do JB Weld, the metal shop will likely hate you, and may charge you more for extra cleanup on the area as it may contaminate the weld. For this reason, I'd vote #3 first...
 
Honestly just tow the boat to a welding show and wait an hour for them to weld it, no need to even remove it from the pump.
 
Just a note; if you are going to want to have it welded and you do JB Weld, the metal shop will likely hate you,
Yea, I considered that... I have had time to think about it a little more and i think I'll wind up running as is just for Mother's Day and pull the nozzle Sunday night to take it to the shop.
 
I would leave it alone and run it. Not sure that metal is easily weld-able and an epoxy stands no chance of keeping it together if it gets hit again.
 
I would leave it alone and run it.
Yea Murf, I talked to the guy at Paradise and he said he would look at it but there is a 99.9% chance that he can't weld it because of the way it was cast. But I just noticed in the first pic something I didn't catch with the naked eye... it looks like the crack goes in about an inch and then goes vertical an inch or so. That makes me think I might want to stop drill it and JB. I'll know more tomorrow when I can look at it better.
 
Yea Murf, I talked to the guy at Paradise and he said he would look at it but there is a 99.9% chance that he can't weld it because of the way it was cast. But I just noticed in the first pic something I didn't catch with the naked eye... it looks like the crack goes in about an inch and then goes vertical an inch or so. That makes me think I might want to stop drill it and JB. I'll know more tomorrow when I can look at it better.
It can be welded for sure, a competent welder with the right equipment can do it.
 
I’ll second the part about not putting any epoxy on it. Its cast and you don’t want to have anything on there that can be avoided before welding it. Cast can be hard enough to weld as it is, adding epoxy could make it even more difficult. The crack will need to be ground out in a V shape then welded with a TIG set up.

What does the other side look like?

I’d be reticent to run that the way it is. Underway that piece could be flexing / vibrating, and it’s not just cracked, the material is offset indicating there was or is a binding force applied to that area which is probably why it cracked in the first place.
 
I'll be the contrarian... You might as well replace it when you find a good used one... I would NOT park it. Use as is, or jbweld/waterweld if you are so inclined.

That location does not appear to get huge pressures... And you do have some clearance around it on the outside to lather on the epoxy. The other thought it to leave it and Mark it so you can tell if it's growing. Paint marker as an idea. Only then mess with it.

I would not bother welding when the part can be found used.

Best of luck
 
I'll be the contrarian... You might as well replace it when you find a good used one... I would NOT park it. Use as is, or jbweld/waterweld if you are so inclined.

That location does not appear to get huge pressures... And you do have some clearance around it on the outside to lather on the epoxy. The other thought it to leave it and Mark it so you can tell if it's growing. Paint marker as an idea. Only then mess with it.

I would not bother welding when the part can be found used.

Best of luck

I wonder if they sell just that piece, or if a whole new nozzle is their only solution? I think the parts explosion shows that it's got a number, but who knows in this new age of "replace the whole assembly, it's the only way"
 
Well, I took it to my local marine welding shop (he fabricates custom T-Tops and Towers) and he offered to weld it for me, but pretty much guaranteed me it would crack again outside the weld due to the cast material and the heat from welding it. He said if it was him the would JB weld it, so that's where I'm headed...

I just can't do a replacement for now at $265.00
And I have given up on ebay.

I'll post updates and we shall see how it goes, if it doesn't hold I'll bite the bullet on a new one. ;)
 
If the jbweld doesn't hold. I actually have a replacement I got long ago by sheer luck that i could sell you. I've had it 6 years in a box and I doubt I'll ever need it.
 
If the jbweld doesn't hold. I actually have a replacement I got long ago by sheer luck that i could sell you. I've had it 6 years in a box and I doubt I'll ever need it.
@Beachbummer That would be AWESOME... PM me what you want for it please! :winkingthumbsup"
 
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